It’s no wonder that Helena’s jewelry blends into the Bellerose universe so seamlessly, as we share a love for designs that are both timeless and contemporary, with great diversity in colors and textures. The luminosity and simplicity of her creations, reflecting the strong bond with her native Canary Islands, are what truly set her apart, along with her eagerness to incorporate unexpected materials such as porcelain and wood. We recently got the chance to spend a day with her in her hometown Madrid and were delighted to discover her world, including her stunning apartment, her neighborhood and her workshop. At the same time, it allowed us to ask her some of the questions that had been on our mind for while already.
Could you present yourself in a few words?
Small and tenacious and - I guess - with a clear vision of what I like, which is basically a constant search for beauty and harmony. I love colors and soft forms.
Tell us a bit about yourself, your background and your career path.
I began making jewelry when I was 18 and living in Florence. Though I went on to study Political Sciences I kept believing in building a small company of soulful designs that I could produce and deliver myself. I was lucky enough to be working with a designer called Jacqueline Rabun at the fair in Paris back then. There, I learned how to reach the stores that understand the kind of jewelry that exists between high-end and fantasy. I met Barney’s New York and Japan, they made their first orders and that was it! It has now been 25 years and I’m honored to maintain a steady and close relationship with my clients.
Do you remember what motivated you to start your own brand?
I didn’t find the jewelry what I was looking and wishing for around me. I guess that’s what design is; projecting onto the world one’s vision of it and turning those aesthetic dreams into realities.
Where does that passion for jewelry come from? What does it represent for you?
I like the sculptural dimension of jewelry and the humanity it conveys having to be a piece close to the body - ergonomic and wearable. I like to think jewelry is art to wear, kind of a timid sculpture you own and give emotional value to. That’s why I am so interested in making my jewelry pieces 3 dimensional - the more you look at them the more readings they have.
How would you describe your jewelry to someone that doesn’t know your brand? Your collections are very diverse, what is the common point between your creations?
My jewelry is essential, in the sense that it wishes to adorn the body but without overwhelming it. I believe the pieces should become part of the person and not the other way around. I strive to create contemporary pieces using metal and color in the form of other materials - these may be stones but also wood, porcelain or 3D printed sustainable PLA. I hope to create curiosity and beauty. The pieces
are simple and yet full of personality.
In what way do you think the Bellerose universe and your brand complete each other?
My main wish is to create “leave on” jewelry that blends with the individual, not something to take off all the time! I believe the Bellerose mood holds the same wish to create a way of living, with colorful and wearable pieces.
To you, what 3 words describe Bellerose the best?
Fresh, honest and lighthearted.
Can you tell us what you like the most about our new SS 20 collection?
I love the mix of colors, with red fluffy sweaters, green trousers or striped dresses. I love the soft suede bags. I also love the general mood that feels relaxed and exudes a certain happiness and softness of shapes.
What word would best describe your style?
I try to keep it simple and personal; I love colors and layers. I am small in size, so I like wearing relaxed, feminine and honest clothing. I would say I’m also quite sober with my style - putting focus on small details like a belt or a brooch. But it really all depends on the mood of the day!
Your brand employs seven people and you also have other projects on the side, such as footstools, handmade embroidered cushions, carpets etc. How do you manage all these projects? And where does this creative energy come from?
I love designing and take on all possible challenges that come to me. I am a self-taught person in this world and hope to keep learning all along. When I design jewelry, I think of adding color or light to the body, when I design a pouf or a carpet, I am adding light to a home. It’s similar in many ways, even if the proportions obviously vary a lot! When it comes to energy, I have quite a bit and love to do many things. I would say that, together with my inspiration, I’m nourished by time off and by nature, as both give me the time and space to think - contemplation is one of my luxuries.
Words
Bjorn Dossche
Pictures
Victoria Nossent
